A trail of contrasts: Mills Lake, Colorado

This trail report is a re-post from my original blog, Trail Ridge Outdoors. Enjoy!

 

A trail of contrasts

A trail of contrasts

Dark clouds flowing over the mountains discouraged most of our group from hiking to Mills Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), but my aunt and I weren’t about to miss this hike. A Twitter friend, @RMNP4MS had recommended it highly.

We began our hike at the Glacier Gorge trailhead and the trail was crowded with families until we reached Alberta Falls, 0.6 miles up the trail.

Past the falls, the crowd thinned and I felt privileged to overhear a teenage boy tell his friend that this trail made him, “want to paint a picture with words.” Admittedly, I felt inspired as well. Each time I thought the view was as stunning as it could be, I found another around the corner that stopped me in my tracks.

The trail continued upward and entered a rocky basin bordered by sheer rock faces and the harsh terrain was intriguingly beautiful. Throughout RMNP, the contrast between harsh rock, vegetation and water combine to form beautiful landscapes rarely found elsewhere.

Rock cairn

As we approached Mills Lake, the trail disappeared under snow before crossing a massive rock slab marked with cairns. Similar rock formations plunged into the clear water of Mills Lake providing a perfect lunch shot. Areas of snow along the shore added to the beauty. From here, we had views of Longs Peak, Pagoda Mountain, and Chiefs Head Peak. Continuing up the trail to Jewel Lake, which is bordered by softer terrain and grasses, we noticed that the foul weather was returning. Time to head down. [Read more...]

What’s in my pack? A K-mart grease pot

K-mart Grease Pot

This inexpensive pot is light and stores my stove.

This is a new series where I will discuss one item I carry either in my backpack, day-pack or camera bag, as well as one I don’t. I came up with the idea after being asked repeatedly what I carry. What items are “must haves” is very individual, so these are just my preferences. Perhaps you will find some new ideas that will work for you too.

I’m not an ultra-light backpacker because I do I enjoy a few luxuries, so my backpack hovers around 30 pounds with food and water. One thing is for certain, I have lightened it significantly over the last few years. When I was young and strong, I carried about 42 pounds.  Boy was I miserable! Now I weigh everything before I agree to carry it for miles on my back. My day-pack and camera bag are often one in the same so I tend to be heavier than average on day hikes.

Disclaimer: Outdoor-gear is where I spend money, then I take VERY good care of it so it will last for years. What I use might not fit in your budget, again it’s individual. [Read more...]

Cold Spring Shelter on the Appalachian Trail

A misty day at Cold Spring Shelter

A misty day at Cold Spring Shelter

The Appalachian Trail (A.T.) is supported by a series of shelters which provide a convenient alternative to pitching a tent. Some are nicer than others. Cold Spring is best described as “historic” and it has a good dose of character. The walls are embellished with years of graffiti, the roof has a few drips, and the mice are friendly.

All that said, I was happy to find it when my knee bummed out on my first A.T. section hike. True to its name, a cold spring flowed just feet from the shelter. It was so cold I was able to set a batch of lemon pudding in its chilly pool. Mmmmm! I also met four other spirited hikers who distracted me from my pain. A physical therapist even stopped by and checked my injury.

This photo shows a little of the mist that blew through camp ahead of the coming showers. Looking back, Cold Spring hold some of my best memories of that hike. The other thing I’ll never forget (again)…my hiking poles!

Trip Report: Backpacking California’s Evolution Valley

Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. Many thanks to her for this great post and pictures! You can learn more about her travels with her husband, Mitch, on CruisingSailors.com. ~

 

Flowers and Peaks

Flowers and Peaks

Evolution Valley. First, it was a suggestion, and then it was an item on my Someday List. Now I can say, “beeen there” in a sing-song tone suggesting my best time ever in the land of granite. And it was! The best time ever, I mean. Having driven by this part of the Sierras countless times on Hwy 395, gazing at that saw-toothed range, I always wanted to be the Norman Clyde, the John Muir, the Clarence King who had the privilege of a first ascent or true solitary immersion. Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley.

The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. Only a portion of our journey would actually be in Evolution, but the areas we passed through to reach and retreat from our intended destination were just as amazing.

My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. Loitering encouraged! We took four full, plus two half days, to hike the 57-mile route starting at South Lake and ending at North Lake, so 10-12 miles each day was the score. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. I have to say, however, that descending into Le Conte Canyon from Dusy Basin, and not the other way around, seemed like the more fortunate direction for my legs and backside. Ouch!

Day 1:  The first day held an unexpected bonus in that, inadvertently, it turned out to be Get-used-to-less-oxygen Day. By trying to further lighten our loads over and over again, we hit the trail far later than expected, so by necessity had to pitch our tents after only four miles at Saddlerock Lake (11,128 feet). What seemed like an irritating setback at the time, ended up giving us a chance to acclimate a bit before hauling ourselves, and 40 unaccustomed pounds, over Bishop Pass. We found several amazing campsites just off the east side of the trail that held us warm and protected from the wind. [Read more...]

Arizona Trail Petroglyphs

A few years ago, Mom and I did some hiking in Arizona. This photo shows some of the petroglyphs we saw on the rocks along the trail. I still think they are some of the coolest things I’ve seen while hiking!

 

Petroglyphs on Arizona Trail

Petroglyphs on Arizona Trail

Hiking to Rawhiti Cave, New Zealand

Photo by Francois Roche

A guest post by Amy Heritage – Thanks Amy!

 

The next time a guide book mentions a ‘one hour walk’ for people with a ‘moderate level of fitness’ I’m going to regard it with caution. This is how the trek to Rawhiti Cave is described to tourists by the New Zealand Tourist Board. Truthfully, it is a short walk to reach New Zealand’s largest cave opening, but short walks can be deceptive – especially when you’re fighting against gravity. The fourth time I stopped to catch my breath, halfway up the mountain – chest heaving, head pounding, and sweat gushing down my back – I thought, ‘Will I even make it back down?’ Considering all of the hiking, kayaking and farming I had been doing previously – I really hadn’t expected this little stroll to take so much out of me.

I should have been alerted to the fact that this was ‘no ordinary walk’ at the very beginning when, after driving aimlessly in circles in a vain attempt to find the starting point, we finally spotted a tiny, white handwritten sign tied to a post. Were these the official directions? They looked like they had been drawn by a child in art class (albeit a child with very neat handwriting).

After the dubious sign came an even more dubious cross-country journey. We traveled through private farmland, past grazing cattle, and through various gates we had to open and close ourselves, to make it to the ‘car park’ which was simply a field with a sign in it. For the first time I was happy we had bought an ancient second hand car rather than renting a lovely new shiny one. [Read more...]

Gear review: MSR Pocket Rocket

The MSR Pocket Rocket

The MSR Pocket Rocket

Over more than two decades I’ve tried several styles of backpacking stoves for my adventure travels. Most recently, I’ve been using a simple alcohol stove, but missed the level of flame control provided by compressed gas models. When Appalachian Outdoors asked me to review the MSR Pocket Rocket, I jumped at the chance. The last compressed gas stove I owned, while convenient, didn’t hold up well. So, I looked forward to putting the Pocket Rocket through its paces. [Read more...]

Photo of the day: View from Blood Mountain

View from Blood Mountain

View from Blood Mountain on the Appalachian Trail

Book review: Becoming Odyssa, Epic Adventures on the Appalachian Trail

 

This is the first book review on The Active Explorer, and I couldn’t have had an easier one to write — I absolutely loved this book!  ~ Erika

 

Becoming Odyssa

Becoming Odyssa

I felt brave the first time I stepped onto the Appalachian Trail (A.T.) solo. Let’s face it — it’s different for a chick on the trail than for a guy. I’d been backpacking all of my adult life, had good gear, and was in excellent shape, but I still had apprehensions. Now I have a completely new concept of brave.

I just finished reading Jennifer Pharr Davis’ book, Becoming Odyssa, and I’m both humbled and inspired by the account of her 2,181-mile thru-hike from Georgia to Maine in 2005. It is one of the best accounts of hiking the A.T. I’ve read. Both humorous and gritty, her writing style doesn’t pull punches.

From the beginning, she honestly shared her total lack of backpacking experience and many screw-ups as she set out from the southern end of the Appalachian Trail with a borrowed backpack. I caught myself laughing out loud while reading about her missteps and breaches of trail etiquette (hint – backpackers really don’t like picking pasta out of the water supply).

As she put miles behind her, she learned the “ropes,” made friends, attracted a stalker, suffered injury, and witnessed both tragedy and great human kindness. Throughout the book, I sensed her growing both spiritually, and as an athlete, as she continued to put one foot in front of the other for hundreds, then thousands of miles. [Read more...]

Six Things to See and Do in Eastern Glacier National Park

Swiftcurrent Pass Trail

Bridge on the Swiftcurrent Pass Trail

Information overload.

That’s the typical response when visitors arrive on the eastern side of Glacier National Park, Montana. When a friend asked what he should see during his one-day visit, I was stumped. “One day?” I confirmed in awe, “but there’s so much to see!”

Once I wrapped my head around his question, I suggested mixing sightseeing, with a sampling some of the local food and vibe. It was difficult narrowing the list to several activities achievable in just one day, but I managed.

Whether visiting for a day or a week, these six ideas are worth a try for anyone visiting the eastern side of Glacier National Park. [Read more...]

Blown away: Glacier National Park’s Cracker Lake Trail

 

 

Cracker Lake

All looks calm in this photo of Cracker Lake, but the winds were howling!

 

I wrote this post as part of my MatadorU writing course.  Our assignment was to flash-back from today to a memorable event. The trail to Cracker Lake was one of the most memorable I’ve ever hiked, especially since it was the windiest – at least 40 mph, maybe more. Enjoy.

 

My coffee is hot enough to be a little painful on the first sip, just how I like it, and the house is silent except for my cat Rufus trying to reach a toy mouse under the coffee table. Taking the dog out to do her business, the oppressive Florida heat feels smothering; I wish my coffee was iced instead.

Three weeks ago, I was hiking on a slippery snow-packed trail in 40 mph winds, struggling to remain vertical. The trail to Cracker Lake in Glacier National Park began unglamorously with a 1.7-mile plod up an equestrian route covered with mud and horse crap. Fortunately, sweeping views of Swiftcurrent Lake to the left made this segment worthwhile. [Read more...]

A backpacking trip, or a personal journey?

Springer Mountain Plaque

Springer Mountain Plaque

For the past month, I’ve been locked in a vacation state of mind. My heart is still on the trail, but my brain and body are hard at work writing, and making a dollar at my day job.

The Appalachian Trail has a way of keeping your heart. Each time I return to the trail it takes longer to pull away from the simple peace of backpacking “the long green tunnel.” It could be the people I meet on the trail, or perhaps it’s the meditative rhythm of my feet hitting dirt. The only thing I am certain of is that I change each time I visit.

This last trip was especially enlightening. I realized I have only so many days in this life – and I have already passed through about half of them. There is no refund, or “satisfaction guaranteed.” If any of us hope to be satisfied with our lives, it’s up to us to make it happen.

Longer trails, deeper caves, and new adventures lie ahead — so don’t stop now.

 

All who wander are not lost. ~ JRR Tolkin

Backpacking logistics part 2: Planning and resupply

The Jump Off on the AT

The Jump Off on the AT

How many miles should you plan to hike each day? How will you re-supply food and fuel? These questions are interrelated and can be tough to answer if you haven’t had much experience with backpacking or adventure travel. Daily mileage impacts food planning, but as a new backpacker you won’t know your pace. [Read more...]

Backpacking logistics, part 1: Transportation

RoadRunner Driving Service

RoadRunner Driving Service

“You wanna go where lady?” Is what I expected on the other end of the phone-line when I started calling around for a ride to the trailhead. Instead, the reply was, “Sure! I drive backpackers up there all the time.” My adventure planning was off to a good start. [Read more...]

From gym to trail: Adjust your workout for backpacking

Lady Backpacker

Backpacker's Time Out

Throughout the cold winter, you dragged yourself into the gym and resisted becoming a couch potato, lifted weights, walked the treadmill, and maybe took a fitness class or two. Now that the spring flowers have bloomed and you’re thinking of adventure sports and backpacking.

Be careful. You’re in great shape, sure, and haven’t put on any weight this winter, but it’s worth remembering that backpacking will place a different type of strain on your body calling on muscles you haven’t used since last season. Most gym equipment doesn’t require much use of your balancing and stabilizing muscles. Prepare your body before loading up that backpack.

Now is the time to adjust your workout, preparing your body for the rigors of uneven terrain. Here are a few tips to avoid injury and have an enjoyable hike: [Read more...]